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CCPWM Product detail

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Price - $249 +S&H
($9.95 domestic, $19.95 int'l)

Input voltage (Neg gnd) ...
Max continuous current ..
Max peak pulse current ..
Operating temp range .....
Current Regulation .........
+12 to +18 vdc
150 Amps
600 Amps
-25 to +85 *C

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Q) So what is it?
A) I'm getting that question A LOT lately, despite my many videos describing it, the main FAQ page and the construction detail page here at this web site. So, from the top, again:

It is a Pulse Width Modulator or PWM. In the simplest terms, a PWM is just an electronic switch that turns on and off at a very fast rate of speed varying the percentage of time on vs off. To the load it appears smooth because it's so fast, just like our vision can barely detect the flicker of a fluorescent bulb even though it goes completely off and back on again 120 times a second. Typical PWMs transition anywhere from sever hundred to tens of thousands of times per second. The duty cycle of a PWM is the percentage of on-time vs. off-time.

What makes mine different than your typical lamp dimmer, DC motor speed controller or switching power supply is that mine is more than just a variable controller. It has current sensing capability. I have created this PWM to provide very tight average current regulation and/or limiting to a given load regardless of the equivalent resistance value of the load. Using the duty cycle control, it can just as easily be used as a low voltage, very high current DC motor speed controller or lamp dimmer if you want. But it was really designed for HHO. The output is not filtered DC. It is still a pulse train sent to the load.

Q) Will my HHO cell be more efficient with your PWM? Will I get more production?
A) The efficiency of an HHO cell is dependent on the design and construction of the cell itself. A PWM cannot increase the efficiency of a poorly designed or poorly made cell. End of story.

Q) So why do I need a PWM for HHO?
A) To prevent thermal runaway. HHO electrolyzers naturally draw more current as they warm up. Equivalent resistance drops. All brute force electrolyzers will warm up, even the most efficient ones. At the end of a day current can be easily three times as much as what you started with at the beginning of the day. Without a PWM the problem becomes finding the correct electrolyte concentration for an entire day of operation. If you start out weak then production is very slow at the beginning of the day and you lose the benefits until much later in the day. If you start out strong enough to see benefits right away, by the end of the day you're blowing fuses or greatly stressing your alternator.

With my current limited PWM you set your electrolyte for the target operating current at the beginning of the day from straight DC. To start, the output duty cycle of the PWM should be nearly 100%. Half way through the day, as the cell is getting warm, it may want to draw as much as twice as much current if it was being powered from the same straight DC. The PWM, sensing that twice as much current is trying to flow every time it switches on, rolls back the duty cycle to 50%, thus maintaining the same average current output. At the end of day when the cell wants to draw three times as much current, the PWM will operate at 33% duty cycle.

Q) Can I tune your PWM without the use of an oscilloscope?
Yes. An adjustment procedure is included in the instruction manual that does not require the use of an oscilloscope. I use it only because it makes the tuning much faster.

Q) Do you endorse less expensive PWM being sold based on your design?
A) My plans are open source. Anyone can make them freely and sell them if they wish. But, even though they are based on my designs, I will not provide any product support for anything that I did not make. I have seen some of the copies first hand and I can tell you, the people making them are going to have unhappy customers. Some look almost identical to mine from the outside but there are details in the manufacture that they overlook or deliberately omit simply because they are not an electronics engineer as I am and do not understand their importance. Mine cost more because I am the one who put the work into designing it and I take the time to pay attention to the small details that make all the difference. Mine work as advertised and they are proven to last.

Q) What if parts fail? Can I get replacements? They are expensive or hard to get where I live.
A) Most parts can be mail ordered through Mouser. However, there are very few parts that fail in my units. After the first 20 or so units I produced, I learned what failed most often and made a couple of small and unpublished design changes. I don't see these failures anymore. While the original design works fine, copies being made by others do not have these reliability design changes in them. I need to do this from time to time in order to maintain a competitive edge over the copycats and profiteers who try to undercut my prices. They are simply not equipped to adapt to changes the way I can because they do not possess the skills needed. I can send you some spare parts with your order upon special request for a small fee.

Q) What is the cost for you to repair if I do manage to blow one up anyway?
A) I charge a $50 flat labor fee to diagnose, repair and test, plus parts, plus the return S&H.

Click here for the instruction manual in pdf format.
Click here for a detailed circuit description.

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